Checking your dog’s weight: more than a number on the scales

The number on the scale alone does not reveal whether a dog is too thin, ideal or too heavy. A good weight check combines regular weighing with feeling the ribs, a visible waist and assessing the muscles.

Two dogs of the same breed can look different if they are the same weight. Body type, sex, muscles, age and fur change the silhouette. That's why veterinary practices also work with the Body Condition Score, or BCS for short.

The BCS assesses fat reserves. A scale of one to nine is often used. A range of four to five is considered ideal for many dogs. There is also the Muscle Condition Score, which assesses muscle mass on the back, shoulder blades, skull and pelvis.

In an ideally proportioned dog, the abdominal line rises slightly behind the ribcage. The belly doesn't hang straight down to the hind legs. In very slender dogs, the abdomen is strongly tucked up. In overweight dogs, this line becomes flatter and fat can collect on the chest, stomach and base of the tail.

Breed and body type play a role. Greyhounds look different than compact bulldogs. Therefore, do not compare your dog with any picture, but rather assess its individual proportions.

From above, a waist should be visible behind the ribcage. In overweight dogs, the body becomes oval or barrel-shaped. In markedly underweight dogs, the waist is very narrow and bones may be prominent.

Long fur can be deceiving. A wet dog often appears much slimmer than a dry one. That's why feeling is essential.

Place your flat hands on the sides of your dog’s chest. The ribs should be able to be felt with light pressure without them protruding significantly. A commonly used image is the back of the hand: the bones are palpable but not sharp.

If you have to press hard to feel ribs, there may be too much fat on them. If the ribs, spine and pelvic bones are clearly visible, the dog may be too thin. Here too, age, coat and muscles influence the result.

An older dog can maintain weight and still lose muscle. Then the spine or pelvis appear bony, while at the same time there is fat on the stomach. The weight alone ignores this change.

Also monitor strength, climbing stairs, getting up, and endurance. Muscle loss can be related to age, pain, inactivity or illness.

If possible, weigh your dog on the same scale and at a similar time of day. Large dogs are weighed in the veterinary practice. You can weigh small dogs on a suitable, stable scale.

Record the weight monthly. More frequent monitoring may be useful if your dog is on a weight-loss diet, growing, ill or recovering. Photos from above and from the side under the same conditions show changes that gradually occur in everyday life.

Possible signs include:

Being underweight is not always a question of eating too small portions. Dental problems, intestinal diseases, parasites, metabolic diseases or tumours can be behind it.

Possible signs include:

Excess weight increases, among other things, the strain on joints and the circulatory system. Weight loss should be carried out in a controlled manner so that muscles are maintained and the nutrient supply is correct.

Feeding recommendations on the packaging are starting values. Actual needs can vary significantly. Treats, chews and table scraps are part of the daily energy.

Weigh the food using a kitchen scale. Measuring cups are often inaccurate for small portions. If you use training food, subtract it from the daily ration.

Unintentional weight loss or rapid weight gain should be investigated. This is especially true if your dog has a change in appetite, increased thirst, frequent urination, vomiting, diarrhoea, coughing or significant tiredness.

Even if a planned diet doesn't work despite consistent measurements, it's worth checking. Medications and illnesses can change needs.

A good weight check combines scales, BCS and muscle assessment. Ribs, waist and stomach line together provide a more meaningful picture than the number of kilos alone. Regular small checks make changes visible early on.