Checking and safely trimming your dog’s claws

Claws that are too long can change the position of the paws, interfere with walking and, in the worst case, grow into the pads. With a regular claw check, you can recognise in good time when cutting, filing or professional help makes sense.

Claws grow throughout life. How quickly they wear down depends on the surface, exercise, body weight, paw position and age. An active dog on rough ground may rarely need correction. On soft forest paths, little movement or a protective posture, the length can quickly become a problem.

A fixed millimetre rule does not suit every dog. Claw shape, toe position and pad height differ. What matters is whether the dog can place its paws normally and whether individual claws are significantly too long, curved or damaged.

Look at the dog in a relaxed position on a flat surface. Very long claws clearly touch the ground, push the toes up or change the angle of the paw. When running, they can click, get stuck or turn sideways.

The noise on slippery floors is just an indication. With some dogs you can hear the claws despite being of appropriate length. The combination of looking, feeling and observing the movement is better.

Typical signs include:

When a claw hits the ground early, it can change the normal load on the toe. Very long claws make it difficult to place the paw correctly. They can get stuck on carpet or undergrowth and tear painfully.

Dewclaws usually do not touch the ground and therefore hardly wear out. They can curve significantly and grow into the skin. Check them every time you groom your paws.

In the case of lameness, arthritis or neurological diseases, unusual wear and tear can also be the result of a protective posture. Then shortening alone is not enough.

Inside the claw there are blood vessels and nerves. This delicate area is known as the quick. In pale claws, the quick is usually visible as a pink area. If the claws are dark, it is often difficult to see from the outside.

If the quick is injured, the claw bleeds and the dog is in pain. That's why cuts are being made in small steps. If the claws are very long, the quick may also have grown far forward. Regular small corrections often allow for gradual shortening.

A well-fitting pair of nail clippers cuts cleanly. A file or claw grinder removes small amounts in a controlled manner. Some dogs have difficulty accepting the sound of a grinder. Others find the pressure of clippers uncomfortable.

The following applies to dark claws: Only remove very small pieces and check the cut surface after each step. If you are unsure, have the technique shown to you at a veterinary practice or seek professional help.

Don't start cutting right away. First, practice briefly touching the paws. Reward calm behaviour. Then hold one toe for a moment. Only introduce the clippers once your dog is relaxed with these steps.

Successful training can last several days or weeks. It is not necessary to trim all of the nails in one sitting. Calmly trimming one claw is better than forcing a complete session.

Do not hold the dog forcibly. Fear and defensiveness increase the risk of injury. If there is severe panic, pain or danger of biting, the veterinary practice should create a safe plan.

Stay calm and apply even pressure with a clean compress. A suitable haemostatic powder can help. Then check whether the bleeding has stopped completely.

Veterinary attention is necessary if:

A regular look at all claws protects against ingrowth, tearing and incorrect loading. There is no universal ideal length. Assess paw position, movement and individual claw shape. Cut small amounts and get support for dark, severely elongated or painful claws.